Amazing Albi

Albi is an hour by train from Toulouse. Three stars from Frommer’s France means it’s one of the best. I went online and found a hotel with good reviews, less expensive than the others in town, and booked one night. How could I know that La Tour Sainte Cecile would turn out to be our most exceptional stay in all the five weeks?

Let me explain --

We arrived about eight in the morning and found ourselves at a small deserted train station on the outskirts of town. Near the street was a large framed map of Albi, so we studied it, trying to figure out where we were and where we were going. There was no “Vous Etes Ici” mark to get us started. After about five minutes of confusion, a middle-aged woman ambled across the street to us and said, in French, “Don’t look at the map. It will get you lost.” She then pointed us in the direction we should go, saying, “Keep to the right, go across the bridge, always to the right. When you get to the cathedral, ask anyone for directions.”

Hoisting our backpacks, we started walking, not knowing how far we might have to go. We went down a hill and came to a cross street where turning to the left seemed to be the better-traveled way. While we stood there pondering, up trotted the woman again to help us out. She’d been watching us, caring about us! She is one huge reason why we loved Albi. Another is Bertrand, but that comes later.

Even though the walk wasn’t easy (the backpacks seemed heavier and heavier), it was along a lovely flower-bedecked and tree-shaded street that passed a school where children were just arriving. The small bridge didn’t span water, just a chasm, and then we were trudging uphill into the town which was still hidden by curves in the road and trees.

Rounding a corner, I stopped in amazement! At the top of the street was an overwhelming sight – the Cathedral of Sainte Cecile. Look at the picture! The largest all-brick building in the whole world, it has a commanding presence that simply knocked me for a loop! Right there in the little town of Albi!

Built in the 13^th Century, it is – once again, overwhelming. I must quote from the booklet I bought there (the only one I bought during the whole trip). Oh, never mind. You weren’t there so it might be boring to try to imagine it. Go there! You’ll love it!

We didn’t stop to go inside since we still had the backpacks, but instead went in search of our hotel. The street was easy, Rue Sainte Cecile, right off the main square by the Cathedral. The number presented a problem, though. We found 8, 10, 12 and 16, but no 14. Dismayed, even wondering if I’d been duped, I went to the hairdresser shop across the way and asked if anyone knew where No. 14 was.

Laughing, the owner set down his tools and walked us across the street to the ornate wrought-iron gate and pointed down a narrow private walkway between Nos. 12 and 16 to a heavy old wooden door.

Amazed, I asked, “Vraiment?” “Oui. 14.”

I worried that we were arriving too early, since it was only 9:00 and arrival time should have been around 11. The door was locked, but there was one of those communication thingies so I pushed a button and heard a phone ringing inside. A man answered and I apologized for being too early.

“No problem,” said he, sounding delighted that we were there. We heard the lock on the door open, then climbed up two narrow flights of stairs (later finding the elevator) to meet Bertrand, the charming host of La Tour Sainte Cecile.

It’s not a hotel, but a “Chambre d’Hote,” which I gather means that a private person is opening his home to visitors. What a delight for these two scruffy, inelegant women to be lodged in the 13^th Century home that Bertrand grew up in.

He and his two sisters inherited the family home when his father died, and partitioned it into three separate areas. Rather than keep his section to himself, Bertrand decided to share it with visitors so he could meet people from all over the world. He loves people of all kinds -- and I tell you, he’s adorable. When you meet him, you’ll see I haven’t exaggerated or used the wrong word.

The next blog will go into more detail. Don’t miss it! Our one day in Albi was a day of fairytale enchantment (but not at all like Disneyland).

The photos are my first view of the cathedral, Mary and I in Bertrand's living room, and the view out the window of our spacious room.